There Is More To Massages Than Indulgence

April 2017 by Toni&Guy

"Why Is My Hair So Oily?"

Now that is a question that we often hear echo across the salon floor. We all have different cycles, having a greasy scalp can be attributed by a few things. Lucky for you, Lea-Ann Suthern, Salon Owner and Artistic Director at TONI&GUY Newtown helps us get to the bottom of it.

What is it?
Oil on your scalp is actually sebum, an oil created by the sebaceous gland in your skin. It helps keep the skin supple, give hair shine, and inhibits fungal growth. For some, you can produce too much causing oily hair, for others, you can have too little, causing a dry scalp.

Trying to get the balance right can be a life long search. Finding the right shampoo is key to controlling your scalp. Using a gentle shampoo to cleanse away the day is advised. If you have a scalp issue then your shampoo is based around that. It is the first part of good hair growth. Healthy scalp, healthy hair!

If you have excessive oil, the way you shampoo your hair is also a factor in controlling it. Keep the water cooler, having a really hot shower is quite bad for delicate scalps.  Don’t stimulate your scalp to much by rubbing too firmly. Try using the palms of your hand instead of your finger tips.  Any stimulation causes your sebaceous glands to create more oil. Rinse hair thoroughly of all shampoo before the next step.

Always repeat the shampoo. This gives a good clean to the scalp and removes any product from the hair.

I have to wash my hair everyday!
That’s ok! It is a bit of an old wives tale that you shouldn’t wash it everyday. Years ago they had two options – sunlight soap or that shampoo that smelt like green apples.  Now you can choose a shampoo to suit your lifestyle. Some people swim in the morning and go to the gym in the evening (who are these people?). As long as you’re using the right shampoo it should definitely make a positive difference.

Is it okay to only wash my hair once a week?
You may need to actually wash your hair 3 times. First using a deep cleansing shampoo where you leave the foam on for a bit. The oil, needs to be cleansed away completely, to leave the hair really clean.  You will find most hair products now don’t contain Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), Sodium Chlorides or Parabens. These  ingredients can disrupt the acid mantle of the skin causing a vicious cycle.

The acid mantle is the Ph of the skin. Geek alert!

I never use conditioner!
Without the sales pitch, you MUST use a conditioner of some kind. Whether it be a rinse out, leave-in or spray. You must close down the cuticle on the hair after the shampoo process because it opens it. By not protecting the hair, you can damage it further, causing more split ends and colour fading.

It’s finding the right balance of conditioner to suit your hair type and where you put it can make a huge difference. Conditioners really should be placed on the mid-lengths and ends only. Use it sparingly. Having a large toothed comb in the shower will aid the conditioner to be evenly distributed throughout the hair. And rinse rinse rinse! Product build up can effect future colour services and can make the hair lank and difficult to style.

I think I use too much product?
We can overload on styling product. Volumisers, mousses, dry shampoo, waxes all leave their mark. But we couldn’t live without them.  A  light spray volumiser is best for fine hair that is prone to being greasy. Make sure that when you are drying your hair that it is completely dry. Active ingredients in the product need to be dry for the volume part to work effectively. Otherwise it’s just sitting on your scalp.

Your hairdresser also has specific treatments  in-salon which are designed for  oily scalps. They can then give you further advice on the best products for your hair. Don’t be embarrassed by your scalp. Your hairdresser has seen it all before and is there to help.

Products that I recommend are:
From label.m

Deep Cleansing Shampoo – removes excessive build-up of product & oil.

Gentle Cleansing Shampoo – ideal for oily hair or sensitive scalp.

Daily Shine Conditioner – super lightweight conditioner suitable for all hair types.

Leave-in Conditioner – nourishing all day protection without the heavy feel.

Photography: Kristina Yenko
Model: Alex @ London MGT
Styling: Hunter Blue
Makeup: Isobel Claire Stanford
Hair: Nicole Kae @ TONI&GUY Newtown
For Ellements Magazine